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- Happy Fingers by Eva Lopez Vs. Climbro
Happy Fingers by Eva Lopez vs Climbro Usage & Stats
In the middle of the rush for applying Artificial Intelligence (AI) and Machine Learning to training apps, Happy Fingers wants you, rather than the machine, to be the one that actually learns something.
Happy Fingers has the following goals:
• Answering all of your questions related to finger training for climbing;
• Carefully guiding you in the process of choosing some training method or grip type;
• Describing how to warm up; how to hang or how to perform each program;
• Teaching you how to control the load to ensure the desired effects;
• Offering alternatives to keep from stalling;
• Preventing injuries, overtraining and excessive fatigue in your forearms;
• Describing different training methods and the optimal exercise for each circumstance;
• Providing a range of training programs for each method, level and athletic goal to choose from.
I’m Eva López; climbing is my passion and the topic of my doctoral thesis on Finger Endurance and Strength Training in Climbing. I developed Happy Fingers with the aim of making you the main character in your growth process, looking at the reasons behind any hitch you find while training, offering strategies to keep your motivation or progressing in the long run. Of course, your personal situation, objectives and needs will always be part of the equation.
All of the above is based on the most up to date research and what I’ve learned along my 20+ years of observation, analysis and experimentation. I have adapted all that knowledge to the individual characteristics of every person I’ve trained, including myself, to refine and complete the process. Linking Science & Experience, relating Theory & Practice, Evidence-based Training, all describe this educational resource that will help you get the most out of your workouts and your climbs.
I want to make clear that the Happy Fingers app does not automatically churn out training programs from some initial evaluation. It's full of information and advice, but it will never command you to blindly follow some path. Individualization is a staple of training, the Holy Grail. You decide. You’re on the driver’s seat.
CONTENTS:
1. Before You Hang.
11. Are dead hangs for me?
1.2. Terminology.
1.3. What gear do I need
2. The Basic Dilemmas
2.1. Strength or Muscular Endurance?
2.2. Which Method do I Choose?
2.3. Which Grip Type to Use?
3. Training Methods
3.1. Maximal Head Hangs.
3.2. Submaximal Dead Hangs.
3.3. Intermittent Dead Hangs.
4. The Finger Meets the Edge
4.1.Dead Hangs Technique.
4.2.Warming Up.
4.3. Control of the Load. Self-regulation.
5. Periodization
5.1. The Dead Hangs Session.
5.2. The Training Week.
5.3. Proposed Training Plans.
5.4. Improving in the Long-Term.
5.5. Monitoring and Directing your Training.
6. The Road to Perseverance
6.1. Staying Motivated.
6.2. Reducing the Risk of Injury.
Future updates will bring even more contents, mainly in Methods, Programs and Physiological Adaptations.
Strong Fingers are Happy Fingers
Fingers with an Evidence-Based Approach are Happy Fingers
Well-coached fingers, Happy Fingers
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Climbro is a highly efficient training system for improving climbing performance based on 10 years of science research. The mobile app provides real-time feedback on the applied force and hold duration, finger strength and endurance assessment and optimized and easy to follow personal training plans.
PERFORMANCE TEST BATTERY
The battery is comprised of 4 tests:
• Max Strength - checks your maximal finger strength
• Continuous - checks your forarms anaerobic capacity
• Intermittent - checks your forarms aerobic capacity
• Finger Hang - checks your forarms strength and endurance
The tests provide quantitative measures of finger strength and endurance as well as local muscle aerobic and anaerobic capacity. These measures are transformed into scores and presented as climbing grades for climbers’ convenience. The app presents the test results in a Radar chart so you can easily find out what are your weak and strong points. You can also compare the results of your last two completed test batteries to check your progress. The app provides complete information on how the tests have to be performed and guides you during test execution.
PERSONAL WORKOUT PLANS
Once you have completed a performance test battery, you can get automatically a personal training plan that addresses your weaknesses. The training plan consists of 16-24 sessions that are meant to be completed in 2-3 months. The Climbro app provides a handy calendar with the complete schedule of your training plan. It guides you during each exercise execution providing real-time feedback on the muscle contraction intensity, duration and number of repetitions and rest times. The app also suggests the time to rest between the exercises in a session and between the sessions in a training plan. The Climbro app evaluates how well you have performed each exercise and how well you are following the schedule of the training plan giving you insights of how effective is your training.
SINGLE TESTS
The performance tests that comprised the Performance Test Battery can be executed separately, when you want to check only a given physical quality. Additionally there is Finger RFD test that evaluates the rate of finger foce development and All-Out test that checks critical force (CF) and anaerobic capacity(W').
SINGLE EXERCISES
The Climbro app provides 5 predefined exercises with various parameters to improve different physical qualities:
• Strength - develops finger strength
• Hypertrophy - stimulates muscle growth and improves strength-endurance
• High Intensity Endurance - improves high intensity endurance and oxygen extraction
• Medium Intensity Endurance - maximizes oxygen use and improves endurance
• Low Intensity Endurance - stimulates oxygen use and improves capillarisation
• Recovery - stimulates blood flow and metabolites removal
These are meant for more experienced climbers who would like to follow their own training plan and know which physical quality would be best for them to improve.
FREE MEASUREMENT
The Free Measurement function provides the ability to customize all work parameters like intensity, set count, repetition count, work and rest times.
PERFORMANCE ANALYTICS
The "Performance Analytics" screen provides graphical information about your performance over time. It shows the aggregated weekly best results for the selected tests, period and source of execution.
TRAINING ANALYTICS
The “Training Analytics” screen provides various summary information about the exercises performed for a given period presented in several handy charts.
LOGS
The Climbro app stores all test and exercise results in the Cloud so you don’t need to worry when you change your mobile device.
Please note that this app works only with Climbro hangboard. You can use the app with your own Climbro hangboard and any other you can find at your friend's place or the nearest climbing gym.
The Terms of Use of the app can be found here - https://climbro.com/terms-and-conditions/.
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- Free
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Store Rank
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Happy Fingers by Eva Lopez vs. Climbro ranking comparison
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January 15, 2026